Lima, Peru (pisco)
Somewhat off the classic traveller trail, the south American capital of Peru, Lima, is ripe for exploration with a thriving food scene (think Martin Morales’ Ceviche and Andina restaurants in London), plenty of culture (Machu Picchu), the Andes and 1,500 miles of coastline.
Its national spirit is pisco, which shares its name with the city south of Lima. Pisco is made in a similar way as brandy, in that it is a spirit distilled from fermented grape juice (not pomace). It’s made using eight different grape varieties grown in five limited regions: Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Mocegua and Tacna. Grapes include the non-aromatic Quebrenta, Negra Criolla, Uvina and Mollar, and the aromatic Moscatel, Torontel, Italia and Albilia.
Once fermented the juice is distilled in copper pot stills, once only, and no water may be added after distillation. Ageing in oak barrels is actively prohibited, but the spirit must rest for a minimum of three months in an inner container before bottling.
The result is a spirit with an ABV of between 38% to 48% that falls into four categories: puros, made from a single grape variety; aromaticas, made only with aromatic grapes; mostos verdes, distilled from partially fermented must and therefore sweeter; and acholados, a blend of any variety of pisco.
Neighbouring Chile also lays claim to the spirit but has different production requirements. Chilean pisco can be made from 14 different grape varieties, does not need to be distilled to proof, can be distilled multiple times and aged in wood.
Key distilleries/brands: There are nearly 500 legal Pisco distilleries in Peru, with hundreds of brands besides, but the biggest include Pisco Porton, Machhu Pisco and Barsol.
Where to go: Ica is directly south of Lima, making it easily accessible from the city, with plenty of vineyards to explore. Take a trip to Hacienda La Carvaredo, part of the Pisco Porton’s production, which is also one of the oldest vineyards in Peru having been established in 1684.
The El Carmelo Hotel and Hacienda in Ica is a hotel attached to a 200-year-old vineyard which produces pisco using traditional methods, and also has an on-site restaurant. It’s a good base for exploring the rest of Ica.
Pisco aside, Peru has some of the world’s best surfing along its Pacific coast, and no trip to Peru would be complete without a trek to Machu Picchu (which admittedly is some distance from Lima). Having scaled this ancient wonder, pour yourself a pisco and sit with a plate of ceviche in the shadow of the Andes. What could be better?
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